Telephone Quotes

December 30th, 2010 Posted in Repair Costs
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When you have a plumbing issue, you are concerned about getting the problem fixed, how long it will take, and how much it will cost.  When calling the plumber, you want them to tell you “Sure we can fix it, we can do it today, and it will cost X amount of dollars.”

It’s great to find a plumber who is confident that they can handle the job and that can start on it immediately, but be wary of any plumbing company that gives you an exact quote for any job over the phone.

As much as you would like to comparison shop and know in advance how much the plumbing job will cost, no reputable plumber will guarantee a price over the telephone without having first seen the problem.

There are simply so many variables that it is impossible to tell what the job will cost without coming out to your home and taking a look at it.  For example, if the problem is a clogged drain, there is no way of knowing whether it is a simple clog in a single drain line, a clogged caused by tree roots in the sewer line, a collapses sewer line, a backed up septic system, or any other possible cause.

Even if you are able to get a quote over the phone for plumbing work, invariably what happens is that the plumber starts making excuses for increasing the price.  The plumber will claim that it was difficult to get access to your clean outs, there were two clogs instead of one, and so on.

Your best course of action is to call a reputable local plumber and ask for a quote after the plumber has come to your home and looked at the problem.

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Thermal Expansion Tanks

December 30th, 2010 Posted in Water Heaters
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Maybe you have seen thermal expansion tanks at your local home improvement store, installed near your neighbor’s new water heater, or maybe your plumber has told you that you need one.  If so, you may be wondering what a thermal expansion tank is and whether you really do need one.  After all, you’ve gotten along for years without one so they must not be necessary, right?

The answer depends on whether you have a closed or open plumbing system.  A thermal expansion tank should be installed in closed systems with traditional water heaters.

Until recently, most plumbing systems were open systems.  In an open system, water normally flows from the municipal water system into your house, but under some circumstances, it is possible for water to flow “backwards” from your house into the municipal water system.

Responding to concerns about water system contamination, many municipalities have installed backflow prevention valves, also called check valves or one-way valves, to prevent water from flowing back into the municipal water system.   These valves are generally installed on your water meter and are designed to protect the municipal water supply from accidental or intentional contamination.  Systems with backflow prevention valves are called closed systems

The water in your water heater expands as it heats up. In an open system, this was not a problem because the water could flow backwards out of your house to provide for the water expansion.  However, in a closed system there is nowhere for the water to go and instead the pressure in your pipes increases as the water heats up.  To stop this from happening, thermal expansion tanks are installed to relieve the pressure build up.

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Root Control In Plumbing Systems

December 30th, 2010 Posted in Clearing Clogged Pipes
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Roots from trees, shrubs, and other plants can cause serious clogging problems with your sewer and drain lines.  Roots naturally seek moisture, and they will find any cracks or joints in your sewer lines that allow any moisture to leak out.  The roots will then infiltrate the sewer line and continue to grow.  Roots in your sewer line will collect debris and partially or completely block your sewer line.

Backups cause by roots can be temporarily cleared by rootering or hydro-jetting, but they will continue to re-occur as long as the underlying problem exists.  The roots will soon grow back and a new clog will occur.

One way to prevent root intrusion is to replace your sewer line.  This is a very messy and expensive alternative, especially if your sewer line is otherwise in good condition.  Another way is to remove the offending trees, shrubs, and plants, but many times the trees shrubs or plants contribute to the beauty of the landscape.  Also, tree root systems can grow very long, and it may not be practical to remove all of the trees near the sewer line.

If your sewer line is in good condition and removing all nearby trees, shrubs and plants is not a practical alternative, there are root control herbicides available that can kill intruding roots.  Products such as RootX are designed to foam up inside your pipe and kill roots intruding in the sewer line, including the top of the pipe where most roots enter.

Root control chemicals are generally safe for your pipes regular applications can keep your pipes root free.  For best results root control chemicals and other drain cleaning products should be applied by a plumbing professional.

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Rootering vs. Hydro-Jetting

December 30th, 2010 Posted in Clearing Clogged Pipes
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Clogged drains have been around since shortly after the invention of closed plumbing systems and techniques for clearing clogged drains have developed ever since.  One of the most common methods for clearing clogged drains these days is rootering.

Rootering is done by inserting a flexible spring-like metal cable into the drain pipe and spinning it rapidly.  As it spins, cutting heads attached to the leading end of the metal cable scrape the inside of the pipe knocking looses any debris.  The cutting head can also cut through most clogs including paper, tree roots, sludge, grease, and the like.

Rootering is effective for clearing clogs, but it tends to leave some debris behind.  In particular, some grease and sludge is usually left behind on the pipe walls.  Also, although rootering can cut through tree roots and allow the drain to flow, it leaves part of the tree roots inside the pipe.  The grease, sludge, and tree roots left behind will usually start collecting new gunk that will form another clog in the future.

High pressure hydro-jetting is much more effective at removing all of the foreign material from inside the drain pipe.  Hydro-jetting uses high pressure hoses that are dragged or pushed through the drain line.  Nozzles at the end of the hose spray the inside of the pipe with water at three to four thousand psi.  This high pressure water thoroughly removes grease, sludge, and other foreign material from the inside of the pipe.  It also cuts through and washes away all of the tree roots that were intruding into the pipe.

With both rootering and hydro-jetting, if your clog was caused by tree roots, you will need to address the issue or the clog will return as soon as the tree roots grow back.

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Replacing a Toilet Tank Valve

December 10th, 2010 Posted in Toilets
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Inside your toilet tank is a valve that controls flushing and water flow into the tank.  A defective tank valve will cause the toilet to “run” intermittently or continuously.  Fortunately, a tank valve replacement is easy bathroom repair.

First, turn off the water supply and disconnect the supply line from the bottom of the toilet tank.  Place an old towel on the floor to catch any drips.  Empty the tank by flushing the toilet and then use a plastic cup or a sponge to remove the rest of the water.

Remove the tank lid and locate the valve which is usually on the left side of the tank as you are facing it.  Most modern valves look like  a tall plastic column with a cylindrical float around it.  If you have an older valve, the float may be a ball attached to the valve with a skinny metal rod.

Disconnect the hose that runs from the valve to the overflow tube.  Remove the large nut on the bottom of the tank that holds the valve in place and lift the valve assembly out of the tank.

Installation of the new valve is the reverse.  Install the rubber washer on the valve, place the valve inside the tank and secure it with the large nut and rubber washer on the bottom of the tank.  Be careful not to over tighten the nut.  Connect the water supply line to the valve.

Inside the tank, connect the little rubber or plastic hose from the valve to the overflow tube, then turn on the water supply.  Adjust the height of the valve as needed for proper flushing.   Check  flushing operation and look for water leaks, then replace the tank lid.

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Installing a New Toilet

December 10th, 2010 Posted in Toilets
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If you are doing a bathroom remodeling or just installing a new toilet, it  may seem like a daunting task but installing a new toilet is not as difficult as it seems.

First you need to remove the old toilet.  Turn off the water supply and empty the tank by flushing the toilet a few times.  Scoop out the remaining water with a flexible cup or sponge.

Next, disconnect the water supply line where it attaches to the bottom of the tank.  Place an old towel on the floor to catch any water.  Remove the two nuts on the bottom of the tank and lift off the tank.  Remove the decorative caps from the two bolts holding the base to the floor and remove the nuts and washers.  You should now be able to lift the toilet out of place.

Remove the old wax ring using a putty knife.  If the hold down bolts were corroded or damaged, they should also be replaced.  Turn the new toilet base upside down on an old towel or other soft surface and press a new wax ring in place around the outlet on the bottom of the base.

Turn the base upright and carefully set it in place using the two bolts as a guide.  Install the nuts and washers arefully tighten the nuts being sure not to over tighten them which could crack the flange.  Install the tank using the two bolts, nuts and washers again being sure not to over tighten them.

If necessary, install the tank valve and flapper, and hook up the water supply line.  Turn on the water supply, check for leaks, and adjust the tank valve as needed.

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Clearing a Clogged Sink Drain

December 10th, 2010 Posted in Clearing Clogged Pipes
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Most clogged sink drains can be cleared without calling a plumber.  However, if you are not comfortable trying to clear a clogged drain you should let an experienced plumber handle clearing the clog.

Also, if the clog does not clear after a couple good faith efforts to clear it, you need to call a plumber.  Stubborn clogs or frequent drain backups can be a sign of more serious plumbing issues.

First, never use caustic chemicals to attempt to clear a clogged drain.  These rarely work as advertised and they can damage your sinks and pipes.  Also, if you pour caustic chemicals into the standing water and the clog does not clear, you have made the job of clearing the clog ten times harder.  Now you not only have a clog, but you also have a sink and drain full of caustic chemicals.

For a clogged sink, the first place to check is the trap under the sink.  Remove the trap and see if the clog is in the trap or if can be seen in the drain line.  If so, remove the offending material, reassemble the trap and see if the water flows freely.

If the clog was not in the trap, use a plunger to force water down the drain and dislodge the clog.  Several vigorous thrusts with the plunger should do the job.

If the drain is still clogged, you can try using a plumber’s snake that you can purchase at your local home improvement store.  Remove the trap again and feed the plumbers snake down the drain line until it meets resistance.  Turn the crank to work the snake into the clog, then pull the snake out of the drain.

If the plumber’s snake does not clear the clog, it’s probably time to leave it to a professional plumber.

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Kitchen Sink Choices

December 10th, 2010 Posted in Kitchen Sinks
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If you are in the market to replace that old kitchen sink with a modern new design, the good news is that there is a wide array of styles, colors and materials to choose from.  The downside is that you may be overwhelmed by the vast selection of sinks to choose from. Your plumber can help narrow your choices and handle the installation.

The most popular material for kitchen sinks is stainless steel.  These sinks look great in most modern kitchens and go well with most appliances and motifs.  They are durable, chip-proof, and resistant to scratches and dents.  When buying a stainless steel sink, look for a heavier gauge steel for maximum dent resistance.  Some stainless steel sinks also have some soundproofing to minimize noise.

Cast iron sinks were typically installed in houses built  more than 20 to 30 years ago.  Traditionally, they were made of cast iron with a white enamel finish  but modern cast iron sinks are available in a wide array of colors.  The main disadvantage of a cast iron sink is that the enamel surface can chip.  Otherwise, they are stain resistant and durable sinks with a “retro” look.

Composite sinks are growing in popularity and are manufactured using several different materials, each with its own advantages.  Granite based composite sinks are extremely durable, stain and scratch resistant.  They add an elegant look to any kitchen.  Quartz composite sinks are not quite as durable as granite, but they are available in a wider array of attractive colors.

Polyester or Acrylic composite sinks are less expensive than granite or quartz sinks and are available with a shiny surface and in an endless array of colors.  However, they are softer than granite and quartz so they are less resistant to scratches, nicks, cuts, and stains.

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Types of Plastic Pipe

December 10th, 2010 Posted in Plastic Pipe
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If you are considering tackling that residential plumbing repiping project, you need to understand the different types of plastic pipe used for plumbing applications.  Most plastic pipe for use by the do-it-yourselfer is actually thermoplastic.

PVC pipe is very common.  It is inexpensive and easy to work with.  They usual method of connecting PVC pipes and fittings is solvent welding.  There are a wide variety of adapters that allow PVC to be mechanically connected to fixtures or other types of pipe.  PVC is not suitable for pressurized hot water.  It is an excellent choice for sprinkler systems, sewer lines, and drain pipes.  PVC comes in various colors, the most common being white.

ABS pipe is similar to PVC, except that it has lower chemical resistance.  It is usually black in color.

CPVC pipe is similar to PVC, but it can withstand pressurized hot water.  CPVC is ideal for hot and cold water supply lines.  Like PVC, it is easy to work with and is usually joined using solvent welding.  CPVC pipe is usually a light tan color.

PVC and CPVC are both rigid pipes.  On the other hand, polybutylene (PB) and polyethylene  (PE) pipes are flexible.  Like CPVC, PB pipe is suitable for use in pressurized hot water systems.  Similarly, PE pipe is like PVC pipe in that it is used in cold water systems.  Neither PB nor PE pipe can be solvent welded.  They are joined using mechanical fittings.

Before using any type of plastic pipe, be sure that it meets local building codes.  These usually specify what type of pipe is acceptable for use in different applications.

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Choosing a Garbage Disposal

December 10th, 2010 Posted in Garbage Disposals
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A garbage disposal can be a handy item to have in the kitchen.  Garbage disposals grind up kitchen scraps and flush them down the drain.  While this results in reduced amounts of garbage, garbage disposals impose and extra burden on sewer and septic systems.  If you are on a septic system, be sure to have your system evaluated by a sewer-septic professional to be sure your system can handle the increased volume of waste and water generated by a garbage disposal.

When choosing a garbage disposal, your first consideration is how much power you need.  The smallest disposals are 1/2 horsepower and are fine for light duty and small households.  If you anticipate heavier usage, consider a 3/4 hp or 1 hp model.  These heavier duty units can handle large amounts of kitchen waste and will jam less frequently.

Garbage disposals are made in two basic types:  continuous feed and batch feed.  Continuous feed disposals are easier to use because you can keep feeding new waste into the unit as it grids up the old waste.  However, continuous units have open drains and are more hazardous because a hand or finger can get into the unit while it is running.

Batch feed units take longer because they have to be loaded and fresh waste cannot be fed into the unit until the previous load has been ground and flushed.  However, they will not run without the stopper in place so they are safer than continuous feed units.

Installation of garbage disposals requires some knowledge of plumbing and electrical work.  If you are not comfortable installing the garbage disposal, you should leave the job to a reputable local plumber with experience in kitchen repairs and garbage disposal installation.

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