Hydro Jetting

November 25th, 2010 Posted in Clearing Clogged Pipes
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Hydro jetting is method used to clean and unclog drain lines, sewer lines, and other pipes using high pressure water.  Clogs in these types of pipes can build up over time.  Soap, grease, oils, mud, dirt and other materials accumulate on the pipe walls and constrict the flow of waste water.  If roots or other intrusions make infiltrate the pipes, these materials will accumulate rapidly and soon the pipe will drain slow or clog completely.

Traditional rootering techniques do a good job of punching a hole in clog and allowing the pipe to begin draining again, but it does little to clear the pipe of the accumulation of materials.  High pressure hydro jetting not only cuts through tough clogs, but also cleans the accumulated material from the inside of the pipe.

Hydro jetting uses long hoses to spray very high pressure water on the inside of the pipes.  The water pressure ranges somewhere between 3,500 and 4,000 psi.  This high pressure water blasts away accumulated debris from the walls of the pipe, but leaves the pipe itself unharmed.  The inside of the pipe is returned to nearly new condition.

The water pressure is so high that hydro jetting can cut through organic materials like tree roots and paper.  Since hydro jetting uses water to clear the clog and clean the pipe, the water drains through the pipe and flushes away the dislodge materials.

Hydro jetting is a great way to clear tough clogs and get your sewer and drain lines flowing freely again.  For businesses that have a high volume of greasy wastes such as restraints or industrial facilities, regular hydro jetting will keep your sewer and drain lines clog free and eliminate lost productivity due to clogs.

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Repairing a Leaky Water Service Line

November 25th, 2010 Posted in Water Line Repair
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Most people rely on a professional plumber to repair or replace a leaking or broken water service line.  This is usually a big, dirty job that involves a lot of digging.  If you want to try to handle the work yourself or if you just want an understanding of what a water line repair entails, here is an overview of the process.

First, the source of the leak needs to be located.  This is generally a mushy spot in the yard.  Start digging in the mushy area and follow the water back to the leak.  Be sure to have all underground utilities marked before you do any digging.  Once the leak has been found, turn off the water at the steet and at the house.

At this point, you will have to decide whether the leak can be repaired or whether the entire line needs to be replaced.  If the water service line is galvanized pipe or polybutylene, you should replace the entire line rather than trying to fix the leak.

Once polybutylene or galvanized pipes start leaking, they have probably reached the end of their service life and should be replaced.  You will need to rent a trenching tool to dig a trench from the meter to the location that the water line enters your home and install a new water service line.

A leaking copper or PVC pipe can usually be repaired if the pipe seems to be in good condition except for the leaking section.  Cut out the leaking section of pipe and install a new section of pipe using the appropriate fittings.

Turn the water supply back on at the street and at your home and check for leaks before burying the new supply line or the repaired supply line.

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Leaking Water Service Line

November 25th, 2010 Posted in Water Line Repair
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A leaking water service line is a serious problem that should be taken care of as soon as possible.  Your water service line is the pipe that supplies water to your home from the main line at the street.  This line is buried in your yard and runs from the water meter near the street to your home.  If the line breaks between the meter and your home, it is your responsibility.  If the line breaks on the other side of the meter, call your local water company and have it repaired.

A broken water service line is not always easy to identify.  Sometimes, the first warning sign is an abnormally high water bill.  If your water usage for a month is much higher than normal, look around your yard in the area between your water meter and your house for signs of water leakage.  This usually appears as a soft, mushy spot in your yard that never seems to dry up.  Try turning off the water supply where it enters your home.  If your water meter continues to run, then you have a leak in your water supply line.

If you think you need a water line repair, call a local reputable plumber right away.  Once they start leaking, a broken water line will quickly get worse.  In addition to high water bills, the leaking water can cause underground erosion, or leak into your basement or crawlspace.

If your water supply line is galvanized or polybutylene pipe, you are probably better off replacing the entire line rather than fixing the leak.  For copper or PVC supply lines, you may have the option of just repairing the leaking section of pipe.  Your plumber can help you make this decision.

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Home Water Filter Options

November 17th, 2010 Posted in Water Filtration
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There are several different types of water filter systems available ranging from a simple carafe type filter to a permanently installed whole house filter.  Each type has its advantages and disadvantages.

A pitcher or carafe type filter is the simplest and least expensive home water filter.  The pitcher can sit on a countertop or in the refrigerator.  To filter water, simply pour tap water into the top of the pitcher.  The water flows through a filter into the pitcher below.  These do not need any installation at all.

A little bit more sophisticated is a faucet mounted filter.  These water filters thread onto the faucet in place of the aerator and have a filter cartridge that needs periodic replacement.  Most faucet mounted filters have a lever that allows the user to switch between filtered water and unfiltered water to extend the life of the filter cartridge.  A faucet mounted filter is a little more expensive than the pitcher type filter.  Installation of these types of water filters is easy.

An undersink filter uses a much larger filter cartridge than a faucet mounted filter and is mounted permanently under the sink.  These units filter all of the water going to the faucet and generally last somewhat longer than the faucet mounted filters.  Installation of an undersink filter is a little more challenging than a faucet mounted filter.

Finally, a whole house filter uses an even larger filter cartridge, and sometimes uses a series of two or three cartridges to filter all of the water entering the house.  These are permanently installed near the location where the water service enters the home and should be installed by an experienced plumber.  These are the most expensive option, but do the best job of filtering water.

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Polybutylene Pipe

November 17th, 2010 Posted in Polybutylene Pipe
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Many homes built in the 1980’s and early 1990’s have polybutylene plumbing and/or polybutylene water service lines that run from the street to the home.  Polybutylene pipe was used because it was less expensive than copper tubing and easier to install.  Builders saved thousands of dollars for materials and labor on each house constructed by using polybutylene plumbing instead of copper.

Unfortunately, it turned out that polybutylene pipes and fittings suffered from manufacturing defects that caused them to fail after only a few years of service.  They were also affected by the chlorine present in most municipal water systems which cause the pipes and fittings to break down.

In addition, polybutylene pipes can become fragile from excessive heat or cold or if they were overly stressed during installation.  In short, polybutylene plumbing systems usually have serious problems with leaks repeatedly developing either due to cracked pipes or from failed fittings.

If you have polybutylene plumbing in your home that is developing leaks, it is often possible in the short term to repair the leak by replacing the failed section of pipe or fittings using modern PEX pipe and fittings with adapters to connect the PEX pipe to the polybutylene pipe.

However, repairing leaky polybutylene pipe is rarely cost effective.  Your polybutylene pipes will continue to develop leaks and the best solution is usually to completely replace all of the polybutylene plumbing.

A complete polybutylene pipe replacement is a big job that is best left to an experienced plumber.  Be sure to get bids from several reputable plumbers and choose a plumber with experience in replacing polybutylene plumbing.

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Low Flow Toilets

November 17th, 2010 Posted in Toilets
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If you need to replace an existing toilet or you are choosing toilets to install in your newly constructed home, you will need to choose from one of the many excellent low flow toilets on the market today.  Prior to 1995, most toilets sold in the United States used about 3.5 gallons of water per flush.  Just flushing the toilet accounts for about 30 percent of the indoor water usage for the average household equipped with these older toilets.

By federal law, since 1995 all toilets sold in the United States cannot use more than 1.6 gallons per flush.  By cutting the amount of water a household uses for flushing toilets by over 50%, low flow toilets are not only environmentally responsible, but they also save you money.

When the low flow toilet law first took effect, it sparked complaints about incomplete flushing and the need to “double flush”.  Many of these complaints about these  early low flow toilets were well founded, but toilet manufacturers have made great strides during the 15 years since the low flow law took effect.  Many of today’s low flow toilets work as well as or better than their pre-1995 counterparts.

Toilet manufacturers use a variety of technologies to achieve good toilet performance.  Whether the toilet uses dual flush, single flush, gravity feed, or pressure assist technology matters less than how well the toilet performs.  Look for top performing toilets in tests run by Consumer Reports, the National Association of Home Builders Research Center, or the Maximum Performance Testing published by the California Urban Water Conservation Council.

If you need any additional help, a reputable plumber who offers general plumbing services will be happy to assist you with the choice and installation of a new low flow toilet.

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Unclogging a Toilet

November 16th, 2010 Posted in Toilets
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Clearing clogged toilets is an unpleasant task at best.   If you are uncomfortable trying to clear the clog yourself, calling your plumber is a smart move.  Also, if your toilet seems to be constantly clogging, it could be a sign of more serious plumbing or sewer/septic issues and you should have it checked out by a reputable plumber or sewer/septic professional.

But calling a plumber for every toilet clog can get expensive and often you don’t have time to wait for the plumber to arrive.  Fortunately, most toilet clogs can be cleared without having to call a plumber.

The first thing to remember is “do no harm.”  Don’t make the situation worse by pouring caustic chemicals or forcing a plumber’s snake down the commode.  These will only cause further damage and make it even harder to clear the clog.  Stick to using a trusty rubber plunger and you will avoid causing any damage to your toilet or pipes.

If the toilet is filling rapidly with water, the first thing you need to do is shut off the water supply to the toilet.  Next, after placing some towels around the toilet to catch any spills, put the rubber plunger in the toilet bowl and try to place the lip of the plunger so that it forms a good seal around the drain.  Push the plunger straight down, forcing water down the drain.  Carefully pull the plunger up to refill the rubber plunger cup and repeat as many times as it takes to clear the clog.

If you cannot clear the clog with the plunger, it’s probably a good idea to let a plumbing professional handle it.

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Replacing Your Water Heater

November 16th, 2010 Posted in Water Heaters
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Most people don’t give much thought to replacing or upgrading their water heater until it breaks.  Typically, water heaters quietly give good service for years until they suddenly give out.  Ten to fifteen years is a normal life span for the average water heater.

Water heater problems generally fall into one of two categories.  They will eventually either stop heating the water or start leaking.  If your water heater is leaking, it’s definitely time for a new one.  Water heaters eventually corrode through the tank and start leaking, and when they do they are not repairable.

On the other hand, if your water heater has suddenly stopped heating water, you may consider having it repaired.  First, check to make sure that the problem is not simply an interruption in your electric or gas service.  If not, then a reputable plumber who handles a full range of plumbing services may be able to repair the problem.

However, keep in mind that as mentioned above, all water heaters eventually rust through and need to be replaced.  If your water heater is nearing the end of its lifespan, consider replacing it with a new energy efficient unit rather than having it repaired.  You may actually save money in the long run.  A reputable plumber will be able to determine what’s wrong with your water heater, how much it will cost to repair, and help you decide whether repair or replacement is the better option.

When shopping for a water heater, consider how much capacity you need.  A 40 gallon tank is the norm, but you may need a 50 gallon tank for a larger family or if you have higher hot water needs such as for a whirlpool or a hot tub.

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Faucet Types

November 16th, 2010 Posted in Bathroom Repairs
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Anyone who has stood in front of the impressive faucet displays at any warehouse type home improvement store knows that there is a vast and wonderful array of faucets available for your bathroom and  kitchen tubs, sinks, and showers.  If you are doing a kitchen or bathroom repair or remodeling, there are many attractive styles and types of faucets to choose from.

There are four common types of faucets:  compression, ball, cartridge and disc.   Compression faucets have been around for a long time.  They are still available and offer an economical faucet alternative.  A compression faucet relies on a rubber washer that seals against the valve seat to control the flow of water.  As these washers get hard and brittle with age they tend to start leaking.

A washerless faucet does not rely on these rubber washers and generally last longer than a compression faucet.  A washerless faucet can develop leaks too, but they are easier to repair than compression faucets.

There are three types of washerless faucets.  Ball faucets are single handle faucets.  The handle is attached to a ball and swivels to control the amount and temperature of the water.

Cartridge faucets can have either one or two handles.  They use a stem attached to the handle that moves up and down and side to side inside a cartridge to control the flow and temperature of the water.

Disc faucets are the latest development in washerless faucets.   Like ball faucets, they use a single handle to control the amount and temperature of the water using two discs inside the housing that slide against each other.

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Repairing a Leaky Compression Type Faucet

November 16th, 2010 Posted in Faucet Repairs
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A dripping faucet is more than just a nuisance.  It costs you money too.  Just one leaking faucet wastes about five gallons of water a day and more than 2,000 gallons per year.  If it’s a hot water faucet that leaks, then your cost is even greater because your water heater has to work overtime to keep the water in the tank hot as the heated water drips out of your faucet and goes down the drain.

Faucet repairs on a leaking compression type faucet is pretty straightforward, but if you are not comfortable doing the work yourself, call a reputable plumber.

Compression type faucets use a rubber washer that seals against the seat to control the flow of water.   The rubber washer gets hard and brittle over time and begins to leak.

To repair a leaky compression type faucet, first turn off the water to the faucet.  The shutoff handle is usually located under the sink.  Then, remove the faucet handle.  The handle is held on with a single screw that may be under a decorative cap. The cap can be carefully pried off with a thin screwdriver or knife blade.

Once the handle is removed, you may need to remove the cover over the valve stem assembly.  This either screw on or is held in place with a knurled nut.  Now that the valve stem is exposed, you are ready to remove the valve assembly.  Unscrew the valve assembly using a wrench or deep socket.

At the bottom of the valve stem, you will see the old washer held on with a single screw.  Remove the washer and replace it with a new one of the proper size.  Reassemble the faucet, check for leaks, and you’re done!

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